I have been shooting Marocchi Conquistas and Lanber semi-autos for years with no problems. I got into a discussion with a friend that turned into a disagreement. Can you help? I decided to dust off my Lanber semi auto and shoot some sporting with it..giving the Conquista a rest. A friend who shoots 391’s noticed that my gun looked well lubed well when he inspected the internal workings.
I noted that I shoot all semi autos wet with break free…your recommendation. He noted that was a bad idea, that the break free would eat up eat up the O -rings if it came in contact with them. I disagreed. For grins I called Bachelders Master gunsmiths in Michigan who stock parts and do warranty work on Lanbers, and they stated I should shoot them dry cause the break free would eat the O-rings.
Do you think break free will eat away at rubber O rings or do you think it helps preserve the wear on them….I would of thought it would help them…These guys claim its only good on metal surfaces. What are your thoughts on this as I always shoot this gun wet and break free obviously comes in contact with these O-rings especially the one inside the piston that rides up and down the magazine tube…so far no problems.
Thanks, I look forward to your response.
I don’t have a clue what Lanber makes their “O” rings from, but I’ve put a million billion rounds through BreakFree CLP soaked Remington 1100s and never had an “O” ring dissolve in the rings. As a matter of fact, my 1100 “O” rings lasted considerably longer than those of my friends who shot their guns dry because the lube kept the rings from tearing when the gun was disassembled.
If your Lanber works well wet, continue to shoot it wet and simply observe what happens to the O rings. If they start to melt, shoot it dry and get used to cleaning it more often.
I get asked the “wet or dry” semi-auto question a lot. Here is the Technoidal Truism #12-A as to lubing gas guns: “If what you are doing to maintain your gun works, don’t listen to me. Keep doing what you are doing. If it ain’t broke….”
Of course, if you are shooting your gun dry and having trouble, then try shooting it wet with BreakFree CLP and see what happens. In my experience, my Remington 1100s, Ithaca 51s, Winchester Super X1, Browning B-80 and Beretta 302, 303, 390, 391s (geez, has it been that many?) all responded very nicely to a good sloshing of BreakFree CLP. Then again, I’m more of an “add oil” guy than a “change oil” type. I tend to run my gas guns until they need cleaning, not until I feel guilty. If you clean your gun spotless every time you shoot it, then it will work perfectly no matter what you do or don’t spray on it. It’s when you let them “age” a little bit like I do that the CLP shows its worth.
By the way, I was talking to a Remington rep once about shooting the 1100s wet. He said that Remington urged people to shoot them dry mainly because the average guy thought that shooting them wet meant a good spraying down with WD-40. A wet coating of WD-40 on a dirty magazine tube and rings has the unfortunate tendency to loosen all the gunk and then quickly evaporate and deposit it back harder than ever. The benefit of BreakFree CLP is that it stays in liquid form longer, keeping all the carbon in suspension. It’s not a lube situation. It’s a solvent deal. As long as that carbon is in a liquid suspension, it won’t stop the gun. I’ve tried just about all the lube/solvent/preservative oils out there and for me BreakFree CLP works best because it keeps things in solution longest. That’s not to say that there isn’t something else out there that’s better. I just haven’t found it – yet. I’m keeping my eyes open though.
The Technoid writing for Shotgun Report, LLC
(Often in error. Never in doubt.)