-
Recent Posts
- Beretta 687 1985 Statue Of Liberty March 31, 2023
- 5 Simple Steps to Higher Scores March 30, 2023
- Jony Carter’s First US Bird Hunt March 29, 2023
- AVCI Skeet Ammo March 28, 2023
- AVCI Shotgun Ammo March 27, 2023
- Game Shooting with Ben Husthwaite March 24, 2023
- Beretta 486 DS March 23, 2023
- Ed Solomon’s Shotguns March 22, 2023
- Hownhall-Driven Targets March 21, 2023
- 2023 Benelli Montefeltro March 20, 2023
Recent Comments
- Roland Leong on Jony Carter’s First US Bird Hunt
- Bill E. on Jony Carter’s First US Bird Hunt
- poly1man on K80 Pro Rib Monarch
- Mike on Jony’s Classic Double 201 SxS
- Roland Leong on Low Velocity Shells
- Bill E. on Belgian Browning Choke Marks
- Bruce Buck on Belgian Browning Choke Marks
- Jackie Overly on Belgian Browning Choke Marks
- Roland Leong on Belgian Browning Choke Marks
- Jackie Overly on Belgian Browning Choke Marks
Categories
Archives
Meta
-
Join 291 other subscribers
Shotgun Report® 
While Dons answer is all correct……..it is way to complicated for 90% of the shooters out there. I teach a much simpler method. I ask my students, “Which target do you NOT want to shoot 2nd?” On true pairs I tell my students to ask for two pairs to see. Zero in on one bird, go bang at the break point……….notice where the 2nd. bird is and what it is doing. Ask for another pair, switch birds…..Now see where the other bird is at your 1st. break point, and what is it doing. After you have seen both in a true pair situation you can decide which bird you want to shoot first, and how you adjust hold and break points to facilitate effecient gun movement to the 2nd. bird. Basically you are saying…..” I want to shoot the bird that will become uglier and uglier the longer it flies FIRST to take that one out of the equasion. Simple method, works very well………………………
LikeLike