Browning B-2000

Dear Technoid,

I’ve used a Remington 11 for years with success for birds and ducks. But for some reason I’m drawn to a Browning B-2000 a dealer has for sale. It comes with 2 barrels-a 32″ and a 26″. I’ve read your criticisms of the current gas guns but little on the 2000. What’s it’s story? Good shooter?

Just ran across your site! Excellent reports.


Dear Tom,

Since you say that you are coming out of a Remington model 11 (a Browning A-5 predecessor made from 1911-1948) I certainly can’t warn you about the old adage of shooting out-of-date semi-autos and a lack of spare parts. The hump back profile of the B-2000 should be appealing. You will definitely like the reduction in recoil when switching to a gas operated gun instead of the recoil operation of the model 11.


If you just have to have the gun- fine, but I don’t recommend it. I never shot a B2000 a whole bunch, but I did shoot it a little and found it nice enough. That said, you are violating one of the primary rules of semi-autos- “Never buy an out of production semi-auto with an unsure supply of parts.”

Semi-autos break. That’s the nature of the beast. The John Browning design recoil-operated Remington 11 and Browning A-5 are almost indestructible workhorses, but gas guns are in a different reliability category. Can you still get parts for the B-2000? Before you even start to consider buying the gun, call Browning Parts and ask them if they still support the gun. Most gun companies stop stocking parts for a gun which has been out of production for a certain length of time. Your B-2000 was imported between 1974 and 1983. That’s a while. Believe it or not, Remington no longer supports the standard weight 20 gauge 1100, even though the 1100 is still in production in a lighter weight 20. Check with Browning. The B-2000 isn’t going to be as breakage free as the model 11 was.

Browning only sold about 115,000 B-2000s. It was never very popular and couldn’t come close to competing against the Remington 1100. Why? There has to be a reason. Think about why Browning couldn’t sell the guns and had to shift to the B-80 (Beretta clone). Think about the longevity of the A-5 design. The B-2000 was not a particularly successful design. That doesn’t mean that it wasn’t a decent gun, just that it either cost to much to make or didn’t work as well as the competition. Maybe both. The Super-X was a decent gun (though with its flaws), but it cost too much to make compared to the Remington 1100 and wasn’t as reliable (yes, I know everyone else’s were perfect, but MY three weren’t all that reliable), so it died.

Two barrels on your B-2000 is a nice plus, but I don’t believe that the guns came with screw chokes. 32″ is a looong bbl for any semi-auto, so this is the one you would probably cut back and have screw chokes installed in after you thought about it a while. That’s more money into an obsolete gas gun, rather than a new one.

Still, its up to you. If you are drawn to a gun, it is hard to ignore the siren song of that sultry beauty reclining in the dealer’s rack. Just try to think about what it is going to be like when you try to sell it. And don’t compare the reliability of gas gun to that of a recoil operated model 11. It ain’t gonna happen. Especially when it rains/snows/sleets.

Best regards,

Bruce Buck
Shotgun Report’s Technoid
(Often in error, never in doubt.)

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Ask the Instructor: Chokes for Beginners

Source: Ask the Instructor: Chokes for Beginners

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An American Brittany Story

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1100 Ring Rust

Dear Technoid,

I have an 12 gauge 1100 which I shoot clean and dry. External wipe-down after shooting, and magazine tube cleaning before tournament use, but typically not between practice sessions. With this gun, that works.

I carry CLP for emergencies, but only needed to resort to it once. It worked. I use CLP regularly on a more temperamental 20 gauge 1100 that my sons use. It works there too. I rarely get rust around the rings after storage. My friends complain they often do. It seems the times I do get ‘ring rust’ is after I shoot AA reloads.

A shooting friend works with plastic at an experimental lab. He claims he made the first batch of Remington plastic shotgun shells. I asked him. He seems to think that my observation could be true, i.e. rust when I shoot AA’s. He gave a technical answer supporting his thoughts, but it went over my head.

A) Whadda think; and

B) If we presume my observation is correct, do you think shooting with CLP would prevent the ‘ring rust’?


Dear Thomas

I did experience some ring rust on my 1100s from time to time, but just assumed that was due to my usual slothful gun non-maintenance regime. I never associated it with any particular hull. When I remembered to slop some BreakFree on the tube and rings, there was never any problem.

I am no plastics engineer by a long shot (or a short one either, for that matter). The only rust that I could associate with plastic hulls was chamber rust in my Belgian Brownings. Those suckers would rust while you watched. It didn’t happen as much with Reifenhauser hulls, but it sure did with the AA compression formed hulls. I always sort of thought that the hull left a thin laminate of plastic in the chamber which trapped water vapor between the steel and the plastic, promoting rust. This was just my theory and I never bothered to consult a higher authority (such as someone who actually knew something). A little scrubbing and a squirt with anything handy always cleaned the chambers up if I didn’t let it go too long. In Europe it was common to order the FN Brownings with chromed chambers. I have even heard of the Brits using stainless steel chamber liners.

As to ring rust being due to the AA hull, I dunno. Any contaminates or moisture from the AA hull would have to travel up the barrel, through the ports and onto the magazine tube and rings. While not impossible, that seems a stretch.

My uneducated guess is that ring rust has something to do with heating and cooling of moisture laden air caused by the hot gasses operating the action. Something precipitates moisture and then the crud and carbon holds it on the rings and tube. Changing the metals in the magazine tube and rings to stainless (as in the 11-87) won’t stop the moisture from accumulating, but will stop the moisture from rusting the steel. That’s my best guess and I’m sticking with it until I actually talk to someone who knows the facts.

Bottom line: if your gun rusts when you shoot it clean and dry, but not when you shoot it wet with BreakFree CLP, shoot it wet.

Best regards,

Bruce Buck
The Technoid writing for Shotgun Report, LLC
(Often in error, never in doubt.)

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Barrett Sovereign Rutherford

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Mr. Fox Haas’ 70th Turkey Season

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NRA Family | What’s in Kim Rhode’s Range Bag?

Here’s a look inside Olympic shooter Kim Rhode’s range bag.

Source: NRA Family | What’s in Kim Rhode’s Range Bag?

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